Crunch, crunch, crunch. A dozen eager tourists walking up a stony hillside, making more noise than 100 elephants. A few feet from the top our guide tapped the side of his shoe, the sign for us to engage super-silent mode. We were tracking desert rhino in Namibia, and one of them was just over the hill. We needed stealth mode because although a rhino’s eyesight is poor, its hearing is sharp. We were trying not to disturb it. And given that black rhinos can have a short fuse, we obviously didn’t want to trigger a charge.

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