clewis, 1:01 am
After hiking the Pafuri Walking Trail in the remote north of the Kruger Park, I’ve decided the park is best explored on foot. Don’t expect to sleep in at Pafuri Walking Trail Camp. Wake-up call is at 5:30 a.m. Despite guides carrying rifles, I feel vulnerable. A cartoon from Gary Larson’s Far Side pops into my head: Two crocodiles are lying next to each other, a pith helmet and a safari suit between them… A lone elephant is feeding nearby. We tiptoe closer. He swings around and gives us a haughty look. We freeze and hold our breath. Even the birds have gone quiet. Then he saunters away, content that he showed us who is boss.