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Discovering Cooking And Culture In Fez

Discovering Cooking And Culture In Fez

Donkeys and mules laden with pails of milk and baskets of goods are led slowly through the streets, some whip-thin, others broader; we stop in our tracks at the sight of the doe-eyed, reluctant beasts. In the gentle lilt of Moroccan Arabic the donkey minders shoo us out the way. We sample a market breakfast of large flat breads, such as harcha the semolina pan-fried bread made with butter and milk with a spicy relish, olives and later dates. Having skipped breakfast, we tuck in with gusto. Men and women in plain djebella are buying their breakfasts here too. I watch them keenly, taking in the easy conversations they are having with vendors, the patient haggling, the packages wrapped up and new customers moving in to the front. It’s a rhythm of the everyday here in Fez – food is bought fresh from a market, as it always has been.

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