After centuries of influence from the Romans, the Byzantines, the Turks, the Spanish and the rest of the Arab world, Tunisian cuisine is having its moment in the sun. It mixes sweet and savory, it’s easy on the spice factor, and it’s rich, subtle and filling — often all at once. So from the clatter of Tunis medina and its promise of warm lamb couscous, to the fishermen’s dreams of Sousse and La Goulette, we set out to explore the very best in homegrown Tunisian cuisine.

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