Nungwi, a fishing-village-turned-tourist-playground on the northern tip of Zanzibar, is known as a Zanzibar party hub. But we’re here in early July, during Ramadan and right at the start of the high season. Nungwi is quiet, downright peaceful, with only a smattering of tourists. We have the restaurants nearly to ourselves and we’re the sole guests at our hotel, the Sazani Beach Lodge, which is a five-minute taxi ride from town.

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